HA - Doll of Rungus (SABAH)
The Rungus are an ethnic group of Borneo, residing primarily in northern Sabah in the area surrounding Kudat. The design of the Rungus costume is simple. A black cloth with little hand-stitched patterns worn from the chest to the waist becomes the blouse (banat tondu) and the skirt is a knee-length sarong (tapi rinugading) of the same material. Another length of black cloth, about 28 to 30 cm. Wide is slipped over the head and it rests on the shoulders draped over the arms like sleeves.
What makes this outfit very interesting is the belts and necklaces that go with it. Little brass rings and antique beads looped through thin strands of stripped bark (togung) becomes a wide and colourful hip band called 'orot'. To wear this, the 'orot' is slowly and carefully coiled around the hip. Then a last string of beads (lobokon) is hung loosely from the coil. The 'orot' is hand made by the Rungus men as the technique is known only to them.
The Rungus are also well-known for their beadwork and the costume shows off some of their finest. Two shoulders bands (pinakol), about 6 to 8 cm wide are worn diagonally over each shoulder and cross over in front. The bead-work often tell a story and this one in particular tells of a man going spear-hunting for a riverine creature. Usually the pattern must follow ancient designs when worn with this costume.
Long antique bed necklace (sandang) are also worn diagonally over the shoulders. These necklaces often include ivory-white discs, obtained from the shell of the kima as well as animal bones. The large burambun and the smaller giring are antique brass bells that sound with the slightest movement.
The Rungus lady's hair is combed into a bun and a multi-coloured floral head-piece (titimbok) is worn. A thin band of beads strung together (sisingal) is tied around the forehead and then pieces of cloth sewn together in rows to form colorful pigtails (rampai) are tided at the nape.
This costume, with all the beads and belts, is worn during festivals. Rungus ritual specialist also wear the complete outfit when conducting rituals.